Last Day in San Miguel

We are savoring our last day here, but at the same time looking forward to being in our home, near friends and family. We do regret leaving the beautiful weather, people, sights, and sounds of Mexico. We have had a wonderful time, and will never forget our month here.

The crafts fair in the Jardin wrapped up yesterday evening, and the entire weekend was filled with music, entertainment, and good food. Perfect for watching people, and we enjoy sitting on a bench and watching the parade of folks from all over the world.

We hope to be back here again. A few last photos . . .

Frank and our young amigo, Juan, just

before the arrival of his gigantic hamburger

Our artist friend, Carmelo

No Shopping For Me Today

In Mexico, today is just another day, not the kick-off of the Christmas shopping season. There are signs of Christmas, though, as trees, Nativity scenes, and decorations are appearing. Our first reminder was a huge poinsettia plant growing in a park near our apartment. Holiday decorations sure look different in the sunshine!

For our Thanksgiving dinner we joined about 250 others (mostly Americanos or expatriates) for delicious hors d'ouevres, meal, and entertainment at The Casa, a facility dedicated to helping

young Mexican girls pursue their education. A local chef, who teaches culinary classes, was the head cook, and the meal was fantastic: Sweet potato soup with rosemary croutons, smoked turkey breast in mole sauce, mashed potatoes with carmelized onions, vegetables, and for dessert a delicious apple crisp, with nuts, caramel sauce, and whipped cream! Does it seem that all our blog postings are descriptions of our meals? It was so interesting to visit with others, many of whom came for

vacation at some point and never left!

The other evening we had a dinner that included vegetables that looked like potatoes, but we learned they were a type of cactus. Love trying new tastes.

Later today we will attend a concert of Gypsy Guitar music. There is always so much going on here--you could attend a concert or more each day, and the tickets are quite reasonable.

We have just a few days left, and are actually looking forward to returning home. A month was just the right amount of time for us. We miss our

family, friends, home, and routine. But not the cold weather! We are really spoiled by the warm weather.

The Arts and Crafts fair continues this week, and there are some interesting and beautiful creations.

Will close for now, as we have an appointment to

take a young 9 year old friend to ice cream.

There is no school today. I gather it is a work day for teachers. Juan is a fourth grader, and we made his acquaintance a couple weeks ago at Starbucks, where his mother works. The photo at left is of the courtyard at Starbucks.

Trip to Dolores Hidalgo

We had a lovely trip to Dolores Hidalgo yesterday, Monday. The city is a bit smaller than San Miguel, and not quite as pretty, but it provided a most relaxing day. The bus ride was just over an hour, and the terminal was an easy walk from the historical center of town.

Dolores Hidalgo is known as the cradle of the Revolution against Spain, due to the involvement of Father Hidalgo who rallied the citizens to oppose the Spanish oppressors in 1810. In addition, the city is now famous for its Talavera pottery, the style that was adapted from the Spanish majolica

pottery.

We visited one Talavera store that had been recommended, and

we succumbed to the beauty of the treasures. We purchased a set

of dishes at a reasonable price--61 pieces--and it will be shipped to us in two weeks. Forget the fact that the shipping costs almost as much as the pottery; it is still a bargain.

The third thing that Dolores Hidalgo is famous for is the ice cream

(and many unique flavors) sold around the square. We passed on the tequila, cerveza, and jalapeño flavors, and settled on

some delicious flavors with fruits and nuts. We think figs were a part of the mix. Mmmmmm!

Last night we dined on the rooftop of a restaurant, just in time to watch the sun set behind the towers of an ancient church. The view of the city was spectacular, and that was before the second margarita and cerveza! On the way home we stopped to enjoy watching some dancing on the stage in the Jardin--tangos, cha chas, and other Latin dances.

Our evening usually concludes with us trying to improve our Spanish by watching B American movies on TV, with subtitles in Español. Surprisingly, it really is helpful!

We can't believe we have just one week to go. It will be good to be home, but we are going to miss the clear blue skies and the warm 'sol.' Frank is getting so tan he no longer resembles his passport photo, so he may have to stay on.

We are now heading to the library to buy tickets for a Gypsy Guitar concert on Friday. We will share more later about our Thanksgiving Dinner experience, which is a fundraiser for a local nonprofit group.

Hasta la vista!

Gayle y Pancho

Where Is the Time Going?

The weather continues to be beautiful here, and each day we check out the weather for Yakima and the mountain passes! Yikes! How can we possibly leave this place?

Today we huffed and puffed up the hill to a part of the city we have been

to only by taxi. It is a steep climb, but provides a very impressive view of the city. Just to think that a month ago I was challenged to walk around our block at home after my surgery. Now we walk 3 to 4 miles per day, much of it on hilly terrain. It has been so good for us. Frank

points out there are many watering holes along the way, however. (But in truth, I can never get him to stop walking!)

This weekend is the beginning of a huge arts and crafts show in the central Jardin, with many booths showing their handicrafts. The display will continue through Thanksgiving weekend.

November 20 was Mexico´s Dia de la Revolucion. This day

commemorates the day that the

Spanish dictator Diaz was overthrown. Thursday the littlest children were parading in colorful costumes, and Friday it was the

older children´s turn, with bands, dancing, and more. Both parades were fun to watch, and went on for hours. The entire town celebrated.

This evening we are attending a concert presented by women from Israel. They are a string quartet, and one plays a priceless Stradivarius cello. Everyday there are several opportunities

for concerts, art shows, and more. Next week we plan to see a Gypsy guitar performance.

Monday we will travel to Dolores Hidalgo by bus. This is the home of many artists who produce the gorgeous talavera pottery. Should be fun.

Soon we will be down to our last week here. Our routine varies little each day, as we sleep in until nearly 8 a.m. (We tell ourselves it is just 6 in Yakima, so it is okay!)

Keep warm!

Gayle y Pancho

Miercoles en San Miguel

Our daily routine: Walk, coffee, sit on park bench, shop, siesta, cerveza on the palapa (or papalapa as Frank calls it), then walk some more and dine.

Monday evening we attended a concert at

the Public Library, the center of

much of SMA's cultural life for

Norte Americano's. Sergio

Busarta is an accomplished and impressive musician on the

Mexican harp and flamenco guitar.

We absolutely loved his music.

The other evening we returned to a favorite Italian restaurant and

enjoyed another dinner. I

was going to skip dessert until the owner, a handsome young Italian, mentioned his special creation: poached pear in a red wine reduction, with shaved parmesan on top. OH MY! The picture is worth a thousand "ahs!"

Yesterday we actually set the alarm to get going by 7:30 a.m. Taxied to

the Autobus Central and boarded a bus to Guanajuato, a trip of an hour and a half. Good way to see much of the landscape. We spent a great day

wandering the colorful and busy streets of the state capital. Saw

only a handful of Americans there, far fewer than here in San Miguel. Viewed the childhood home of artist Diego Rivera (also known as the husband of Frida Kahlo). The lower floor is maintained much as it was when he lived there for the first 9 years of his life, while the upper floors display his various

art work.

We then toured one of the many huge and beautiful churches in the centro, then set out to

accomplish one of our main goals. Guanajuato was for years a silver mining town, providing the majority of silver that was sent to Spain for royalty. The specialty dish is still "enchiladas

mineras:" miners' enchiladas. They contain potatoes, carrots, and much more. Presented with a large portion of chicken, Frank's portion would have fed several miners, all for around $3!

Traveling around Guanajuato is most interesting, as our taxi ride took us through miles of underground tunnels under the city and

silver mines. Originally built to serve to relieve flood waters, the tunnels were expanded to carry traffic below the city.

The original streets were designed for oxcarts, burros, and horses, much as San Miguel. It would be difficult to drive there without knowing th

e tunnel layout, as one wrong turn could take you miles out of your way! No u-turns!

Today for us consists of a visit to the market and an afternoon in one of the many beautiful parks. Then adding to our Vitamin D intake in the 'Papalapa!'

Here are a few more photos to share the flavor of our vacation. Flavor is the right word, as so much of our life revolves around food!

Sabado-Saturday

While we haven´t done anything that qualifies as exciting the past few days, every day brings new sights, sounds, and tastes. The weather remains gorgeous--in the 70´s, with clear blue skies. The picture to the right is the entryway to our Casa.

Yesterday we started with a long but easy walk to the

Fabrica Aurora. Since the 30's it was a fabric factory. (Every time I see a sign saying fabrica, I get excited, thinking it means fabric. But it is actually the word for factory) This fabric made cotton and manta fabric used throughout Mexico until the 1990's. It is now a facility for artists to display their works, and it is quite extensive. Some of the works, such as large metal sculptures, paintings, etc., are priced at well over $100,000. That is in American dollars!

One of the things that always makes us a bit nervous while traveling is the question of whether the ATM's will actually dispense money to us. We had troubles in Italy and Costa Rica until we called the banks at home, but our first attempt the other day was successful. That is worth a Woo hoo!

Most things here are such a bargain, and the American dollar is very strong. Currently 13 pesos

to the dollar. Dining out, buying in the little tiendas and markets are a great value. The other day we taxied to a large shopping center, and had our eyes opened. Electronic equipment, American-type home furnishings and clothing are off the charts. I feel for the locals in their efforts to maintain. However, buying local brands can save approximately 2/3.

This morning we walked to the nearby park, Jardin de Benito Juarez, and read in the sunshine. Then we walked some more, had iced tea at the Arte Instituto de Allende, and then I had my

first street taco. It was delicious and filled with pork, mushrooms, and spicy sauce. And all for about 50 cents. Then we picked up a few things for dining at home, including more sweet oranges for juice. After dropping them off at the apartment, we hiked up the hill to el Centro. I have wanted to try some of the limon ice sold at

the Jardin, and you can see I enjoyed it.

We are planning our trip to Guanajuato on Tuesday, as Monday is a national holiday, and we think it will be more peaceful and less crowded in the state capital then.

Here is a picture of our neighborhood security force.

Hasta luego, amigos!

Gayle y Pancho

Another Day in San Miguel

We started the day with coffee at a beautiful nearby hotel courtyard (see photos), then walked to the Public Library, the only place to buy U.S. newspapers. Basked in the sunny courtyard while reading, then I went for a manicure--it took 90 minutes, and cost just $8. The young woman who did the manicure is working to learn English, so we had a lot of fun communicating with our limited skills in the other's language.

I had to arrange day care for Frank (see photo). He really seemed to enjoy it. :)

Each day we discover new neighborhoods in which to shop and eat. Last night we dined at a darling little Italian place called El Tomate--enjoyed delicious cauliflower, broccoli, and ginger soup, and then Ravioli Rustica. Even though the dessert was not Italian, we loved the flan we shared. On the walk home we entered a farmacia to make a couple of purchases. The welcoming committee, two resident dogs, were very friendly and charming.

Today we're taking home a roast chicken with tortillas and salsa for dinner in the apartment.

Yesterday we spent a couple of hours at the nearby Charco Botanical Gardens, and had a tour in English. They have over 600 species of cacti, an amazing canyon with natural springs, and flora and fauna not seen anywhere else. They rescue and propogate endangered indigenous plants. Our guide was a bright young man pursuing his master's degree in environmental watershed management. Spoke excellent English. The taxi ride up to the gardens cost under $3, but the ride back down to the Centro was more than $5. Captive audience. Still a bargain.

Tomorrow we're going to a shopping center on the outskirts of town, just to check it out. Frank needs a new book. He doesn't think he would enjoy my selections.Reading in the jardin in the sunshine is one of our favorite pasttimes.

One of the things we enjoy most is the challenge of learning to communicate and find our way in another language. Frank is picking up a little, too. It was easier when I was young to learn and remember.

Hasta luego,

Gayle y Frank

San Miguel Home Tour

Yesterday we joined about 125 others and boarded buses for a tour of three local homes. The library holds these tours each Sunday as a fund raiser for the library and for providing tutoring support for local children at the library. A couple homes were high on hillsides overlooking the city, while the third was just a couple of blocks from our apartment. It is currently for sale for $1.2 million, in case you are interested, and it was our favorite, of course. The only problem with all of these is they are built on 3 to 4 levels, so lots of stairs.

One amazing thing about SMA is the inconspicuous looking doors on the streets. When they are open, you view astonishing courtyards, with lovely tiles, flowers, fountains, and furnishings. They are beautiful and give a glimpse of the homes that are right in the center of things, but secluded and very private.

Friday night as we walked home after dinner (it was dark out) we came upon a crowd of people in a procession, along with a burro dressed for the occasion. It was some type of celebration with singing and sharing of wine. We joined in (without wine glasses) until we reached our street. So many occasions for smiles.

Last night we risked life and limb. We ate at a hole-in-the-wall buffet, that really wasn{t very good. We were worried that we wouldn{t wake up this morning, but all is well. We do like supporting little local places, but that one was iffy! So we live to eat another day!

Our neighborhood is calm and quiet normally, but Saturday night we were stunned. Fireworks! Sounded like dynomite outside our windows, even with ear plugs. We learned later that we can expect that on Saturday nights, a local custom. Yikes! Maybe we{ll join them next week!

Now we plan to take a taxi to a nonprofit place that is holding A Thanksgiving Dinner as a fundraiser. Want to get our tickets early. Frank would be so disappointed without his pumpkin pie!

The weather is warm and lovely, in the high 70{s, and should continue that way. After we walk in the mornings we usually go back home around 1 or 2 for our siesta and sit on the palapa above our apartment. Life is good!

After One Week in San Miguel

I´d like to say we are fluent and knowledgable about all things San Miguel, but not yet. I´m learning new words everyday, though. It is such a friendly and comfortable place to try out one´s limited Spanish.

One of our favorite discoveries is making our own orange juice each morning. For about 80 cents (10 pesos) we can buy more than enough of the odd looking greenish oranges (see photo) that make the sweet and delicious juice. Our apartment has a juicer, so that´s our eye-opener each day. (The eye-closer appears later in this posting.)

The walking we do has been so good for my aches and pains--better than physical therapy for my back! Must be the hills. Tomorrow we will meet other tourists at the public library and join a tour of 3 or 4 homes and gardens of San Miguel. These are some pretty special places, I am told. The proceeds go to support the library.

We´ve also got plans for Thanksgiving Dinner. A local organization that supports Mexican girls and their education is having a sumptuous traditional dinner, with some Mexican specialties thrown in for interest. Looking forward to that, and it is for a good cause. Will be nice to meet some of the other Norte Americanos here.

Last night we went to a restaurant called Mamma Mia; they offer Italian, Mexican, and other dishes. We had tortilla soup (Frank´s newest favorite) and gigantic shrimp in garlic, with rice and vegetables, etc. It was especially delicious, and very reasonable. Before dinner we enjoyed our first margaritas in the bar. As you can see from the photo, one is plenty!

las margaritas--the eye-closer!

It´s a gorgeous day, and we have plans for reading on the patio. Next week temperatures here should be in the low 80´s. Heavenly! Nights can get cool, though, down into the 40´s. Time to head back to the apartment, as we purchased our dinner for this evening from a street vendor: tamales with pollo (chicken). Want to get them in the fridge.

Hasta luego!

Finding Our Way

Each day we explore new areas of town and try to find the places we discovered yesterday. It can get confusing. Was the Bagel restaurant on the same street as the Internet? Where did the Post Office go? Yes, we are one of the obvious tourists with a map in front of us.

(Frank wants it known he is not hiding a watermelon under his shirt)

This morning we walked to the Allende Art Institute, which was lovely and interesting. Then discovered a much shorter route back to our apartment. The local branch of Curves is near the Art Institute, but once I walked that far I decided I really didn´t need more exercise! We huff and puff at times climbing the many hills, but we are feeling strong and better each day.

Yesterday we visited the Museum of local history, describing the life of Ignacio Allende, hero and leader in the Revolutionary movement against Spain. A great museum! We shared a dish of delicious ice cream on a corner of the Jardin (garden), then made sandwiches at home from the ham, cheese, and sandwich rolls we had purchased in the market. We find we are buying more things from local stands and in the markets to cook in the apartment. Fresh fruits, vegetables, and so on are very reasonable. Bought a whole roast chicken (a la Costco) for less than $4, and it came with a dozen tortillas and salsa.

Next week we will take a bus to Guanajuato, the state capital, and do some sightseeing and shopping. We also plan to take a taxi to a Botanical Garden and Preserve where the views are supposed to be great. So far we haven´t stayed up late enough to hear live music at the many venues, but one of these nights we will.

Our Cocina (kitchen)